Twangy Pearl Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< The Launch < Fat Falling Pigs  |  Boilermaker > Into the Sun >>

A well-travelled route now promoted to three stars by popular demand. Superb fingery flowstone climbing that has a technical lower wall and a powerful finish over the bulge.
FA. Damian Cook 6.3.1993


Excellent route and about right for the grade
Paul - 30/Oct/00

Good route
Ed - 24/Oct/01

Surely worth three stars. Not really easy for the grade though in my opinion.
Fatty - 01/Sep/03

Surely worth three stars. Not really easy for the grade though in my opinion.
Fatty - 01/Sep/03

After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight.
matt perks - 29/Jan/05

Thought this route was not easy for the grade at all, I think the last comment made by Matt Perks said it all,especially aroud the 2/3rd clip, the climbing was not quality rock at all, pitty could be a nice route, from the halfway mark.
Glen - 12/Apr/05

thin and technical low down with some brilliant pumpy climbing through the overlap. Move left at the obvious `nubbin` for a couple of moves before heading up and right at the roof.
flapper - 29/Aug/05

this is certainly not easy for the grade. Nails 7b, requires good friction and good footwork, is also come with free added spice factor. feels a bit gnarley on the lead as the feet are a bit s~~t and as glen pointed out, you move off left whilst busting feels airy. it is not a 3 star route, always dusty, maybe 2 at most?
andy schof - 15/Sep/09

sorry Andy I disagree although agreed the bottom is a little dusty the flowstone headwall is definitely worth the 3* :) it is H4G...
Paul Edwards - 27/Sep/09

I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this.
Ben Stokes - 27/Sep/09

Great route although agreed with the comments about it being 2 stars.
Personally I found it hard for the grade, and it wouldn't be a nice fall if you came off after you'd moved left and up.
Iain Moodie - 11/Apr/11

I agree with other comments, interesting move left low down, then a long sidepull off the jug gets holds above the roof without touching the crack on the left. Good moves up the flowstone. Would be a hard onsight at 7b! Particularly without the holds chalked or any tick marks. Usual crap bolt positions, dusty and not worth three stars.
hueco65 - 27/May/14

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