Medusa Falls Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Snakes Alive < Slither  |  To Wish the Impossible > Psychosomatic Addict >>

An incredible frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct.
FA. Crispin Waddy (soloed onsight) 8.8.1987


This route is fantastic! - The crux IS slippy, but you can avoid this if you are strong by pulling hard. The rest is pumpy, but similar to Reptile Smile in rock quality.
Ben - 22/Mar/00

really nice route good 7a to climb as your first. for those shorter people like me ( i'm 14) it may be easier to go out to the right a little. enjoi.
Podge - 05/May/02

Good rests between the moves. I thought you could avoid the polished slippy footholds for the most part.
Becomes a lot easier once you find all the holds!
srrk - 05/Jun/02

Quite difficult to read the crux. Rest of the moves obvious but pumpy. Leader friendly.
James Thackray - 05/Jun/02

found the crux very slippy and pumpy. the rest is fine. Spontaneous Cattle Combustion is a much easier first 7a (because it isn't it)
John Alcock - 05/Jul/02

Great line but not such great climbing. Crux at bottom and rests and no great moves. So 2 stars not 3. Routes at Coastguard North are better.
stp - 19/Aug/02

Crap route, far too slippy for 3 stars, I'd give it only one, then again I've never managed to get beyond the second clip :-)
Al Evans - 09/Jun/03

Good climbing and good line. I don't think its at all polished.
Goi - 07/Jul/03

first bolt far to high for that slippy start!
richard stokes - 05/Aug/03

Spot on for the grade, superb climbing, maybe a touch slippery at the bottom but still classic.
Glen - 11/Jan/04

A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible
Ben Stokes - 19/Oct/04

First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
Alun - 07/Mar/05

this route has one hard sequence only, between the first and second clips, but the second bolt is well placed, so no danger of decking. i can't believe it's a 7a, since i managed it, and i've so far not managed many 6c's that i've tried. not slippy if done in good conditions and you use the flowstone layback holds the right way, in my view.
tonyyates - 28/Jun/05

Its only the starting footholds that are slippy, so dont be put off, fun climbing awaits.
Dan Gibson - 24/Jul/06


Inbalanced difficulty.
Bad placing of first bolt.
Nastily polished at start.
Adam Lincoln - 29/Aug/06

Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Jus - 05/Feb/07

Definitely over rated! A one move wonder on polished rock, then easy. Run out at the top.
Julian Maund - 11/Apr/07

I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way.

I loved this route.
DaveF - 29/May/07

a tricky start (if climbed direct) with good but slightly insecure moves leads to a rest and then more good climbing. bolts should be better positioned than they are but still safe. fair at 7a. very enjoyable climbing on an appealing line!
ksjs - 05/Jul/08

Great Route - Easy 7a?.... There is a new line on hangers to the left of this as well, not sure on the grade, thought it was much harder than medusa falls maybe about 7B, does anyone else know different?
Ben Read - 30/Oct/08

what is this doing in portland top 50!!!! piece of crap!!! sack this off and do the one to the right!
andy schof - 07/May/09

Overated because it looks good. Slippy rock and unbalanced after the first few moves. Two stars (Because it looks good!)
hueco65 - 27/May/14

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