Les caquous

3 Stars
Pumpy
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Chan-th&eacute; < L'ame fatale  |  Surface > Estamporanee >>


1) -, 2) 6a+ & A0, 3) 6b, 4) 6b, 5) 6b+, 6) 6c, 7) 6a+, 8) 6b. <br/>A forgotten classic. Steep and athletic climbing on well-featured walls and cracks, with a pumpy layback on the crux. Following the first steep pitch, a large roof at A0, demands some skill to unclip from, and recover the quickdraws once hanging in tension on the rope (a long dyneema sling larks-footed to the harness can be threaded through the bolt hanger and used to release tension on the quickdraw). Although well equipped, a few nuts and small cams may be found useful.

USER COMMENTS

A great route and different in style from those on the Escales with most of the route after the first pitch involving laybacking. Unfortunately, this route is not in the shade in the summer 'after mid day' as claimed by some web sites. Best to leave it till after 2 pm. It is possible to link two pitches after the aid pitch and the last two pitches with 60m ropes.
Graham Hoey - 01/Nov/13

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