Tolérance démagogique

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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1) 5a, 2) 6a, 3) 5c, 4) 6b, 5) 6a+, 6) 5a, 7) 5c. A mini-expedition with a long and exciting traverse under the big roofs, followed by steep and airy climbing to reach easy ground.


A great route with pitches 3,4 and 5 being excellent. The approach details in the Rockfax guide are wrong and the start of the route is much lower than suggested (don't follow the fixed ropes up the gully - look for the cave behind the huge block leaning against the base of the crag). The exact line and positions of the belays are also wrong but the route is easy enough to follow. For the descent the abseil chains are hard to find but look for the fixed ropes and follow these to chains.
Climbapedia - 03/Jul/11

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