The Bigger Piece

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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One of the longest lines on Portland up a huge pillar. The reach symbol is for clipping the bolts (tip - do No Place for Mambas first and place the clips on your way down).
FA. Martin Crocker 13.8.1989


I didn't think the clips were too bad - I tried it thinking it was 6c (old guide) and managed all the clips (different story with the crux tho').
Janet H - 29/Sep/00

This is never 7a+.I think the undercut flake has broken making it a very unbalanced route. More like 7b?
mark hetherington - 13/Apr/04

I agree with the comments above - very unbalanced
Ben Stokes - 25/Mar/05

I onsighted this yesterday, placing the clips, and thought it was fairly graded for a cruxy (2 bolts worth of hard climbing) 7a+. The hardest move was clipping a bolt though!
Simon Witcher - 19/Jun/06

No more than 7a+ to r/p, although I imagine a very hard onsight (blind moves).
Richard Horn - 11/Aug/08

I couldn't see any issue with reaching the bolts but the crux is a horrible sequence, which is definitely height dependent, and spoils what would otherwise be a good route at a similar standard to the routes to the right.
matt perks - 21/Mar/09

Confused about the crux - below the bulge in the headwall do you:
1. traverse left to a rest then make impossible (for me) moves up and right through the bulge to the flakes on the arete?
2. make a balancy step right, reach up for a high pocket on the right (maybe a hold on mambas?), then step back left to the flakes on the arete?
all advice gratefully received!
ed babington - 16/May/10

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