Great Buttress

1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Thrown Away < Great Buttress Arete  |  Just a Minute > Romulus >>

Start up the arete to the flake then traverse right just above the pruned sapling to the right edge of the face. Climb to a small cave then finish direct on broken flakes. Sadly escapable.
FA. Fred Jones 1933


I don't know anyone who considers the line you describe as VS 4c - More like HVS 4c. How come the line taken is different from the one taken by the route in the BMC guides?
Anth Quinn - 20/Sep/02

The line in the topo does seem to differ quite a bit from that in the old BMC 1989 guide. The line in the ROCKFAX does feel more like HVS 4c/5a and encroaches on the line of the direct Arete.
Nick Smith - 15/Apr/03

I'm not sure about the traverse either. If you go under the sapling as suggested, then if you fall off on the move for the cave you'll hit the ground. But if you traverse above it (and the polish indicates that most people do) you can place gear in the flake on the left arete, which will avoid a ground fall by a couple of feet. I've voted for the grade of the line normally done, not that in PGE.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Jun/03

I nearly led this and then luckily wimped, the top felt desperate when I seconded it and the gear isn't fantastic. HVS 5a?
Jonathan Tompkins - 19/May/04

a lacklustre line,it starts on the arete like the other route you need to place a tape on the flake of the left arete before traversing all the back right up the blunt rib on the far right right of the buttres thats practically in the diff gully, then a couple of good moves on questionable gear lead to an exciting finish. Has the direct up the slab been done as the line in the guidebook indicates it sure as hell doesn;'t look like 4c!
Jon Greengrass - 26/May/04

High in the VS grade, I traversed under the sapling and had no gear except 2 side runners in the diff flake, even with these the start and finish are quite run out. The most commonly climbed finish seems to go straight up to the cave, then slightly right of the line on the topo using a good flake hold
matt griffin - 13/Aug/04

you dont get VS's with ground fall potential like this route. i placed a number 3 (?) nut in the flake on the left and traversed above the sappling. Overall i didnt find the little gear which was available too bad however some of the moves are sketchy. overall, a great route which sure as hell gets the adrenaline going!
the real weeman - 27/May/05

did this yesterday and found it pretty bold and hard for VS, more so if I took the line described in PGE (i followed the 1989 book line) so I'd suggest the PGE line is incorrect and the 89 route is borderline HVS5a/4c. Nicely runout climbing though.
Bob Dulieu - 01/Aug/05

Forgot to point out that the grade and quality are compromised by easy escape and possible cheeky side runners in the Vdiff.
Bob Dulieu - 01/Aug/05

Got to add to the concern about the grade for the indicated route. I wimped out of the lead due to the poor gear for the tech grade and ground fall potential. Passed the arete flake it is of sustained difficulty.
steveshaking - 21/Aug/05

tried this at the end of a day when i was climbing easily at vs and had to back off it. a few months later came back when i was climbing hvs and still did'nt fancy it so much so that i lead the E1 to the left.
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

tough for VS even following the correct line as the gear at the top isnt too great, some good holds though - but unfortunately you have to leave them behind to finish !
lithos - 07/Jun/06

Not a great route but at least it's described adequately in the BMC guide - use a side-runner in the easy crack you're trying to keep out of near the top. The final moves, at least, are independent.
Fiend - 04/Apr/08

The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong.
I traversed right below the (now cut down) sapling and the moves up the centre of the slab are both difficult and dangerous (E1 5a?).
Perhaps more amenable with side-runners as others have suggested.
Depending on your viewpoint, un/fortunately escapable
kristian birchall - 06/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 71
    hard HVS 0 of 24
    HVS 0 of 24
    easy HVS 17 of 24
    hard VS 5 of 24
    VS 2 of 24
    easy VS 0 of 24
    hard HS 0 of 24
    HS 0 of 24
    easy HS 0 of 24
    hard 5a 0 of 24
    5a 0 of 24
    easy 5a 0 of 24
    hard 4c 0 of 24
    4c 0 of 24
    easy 4c 0 of 24
    hard 4b 0 of 24
    4b 0 of 24
    easy 4b 0 of 24
    hard 4a 0 of 24
    4a 0 of 24
    easy 4a 0 of 24
    hard 3c 0 of 24
    3c 0 of 24
    easy 3c 0 of 24
    hard 3b 0 of 24
    3b 0 of 24
    easy 3b 0 of 24
    hard 3a 0 of 24
    3a 0 of 24
    easy 3a 0 of 24
    hard 2c 0 of 24
    2c 0 of 24
    easy 2c 0 of 24
    hard 2b 0 of 24
    2b 0 of 24
    easy 2b 0 of 24
    hard 2a 0 of 24
    2a 0 of 24
    easy 2a 0 of 24
    hard ?? 0 of 24
    ?? 0 of 24
    easy ?? 12 of 24
    hard ?? 6 of 24
    ?? 5 of 24
    easy ?? 1 of 24
    3 Stars 0 of 23
    2 Stars 4 of 23
    1 Star 14 of 23
    0 Stars 4 of 23
    Bag of ..... 1 of 23

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