Beach Madness


Adjacent Routes
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Follow the The Great Escape to the 6th bolt, then climb direct through the roof to a belay on a block. Note that the crux is on The Great Escape.
FA. Mike Robertson 19.3.1994


How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?
Dick Gerrish - 16/Jun/04

The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts.
Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
steve taylor - 17/Jun/04

The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
Dick gerrish - 17/Jun/04

When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope.

No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
Ben Thorne - 23/Sep/04

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