Thick as Thieves


Adjacent Routes
<< Born to Hunt < First Contact  |  Three in a Bed > Frank's Effort >>

Easy climbing to one nails move.
FA. Guy Dixon 1995


A truely poor route as it is so inconsistent in grade. It is essentially all English 4c moves with a final ridiculously hard English 6b finish. When I came to the final moves, I had to abort and go up the route next door to check I was wasnt dreaming!
Neville Contractor - 29/Jun/00

First ascent was probably Guy Dixon - I've never managed the top move!!!

Agree it's unbalanced, but there are many more like it on Portland!
steve taylor - 16/Jul/02

Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes.
I couldn't do this until JD showed me how to do this cunning 1-inch foot move while you're undercutting the smooth arc. I can get it pretty much every time now.
It's a good route.
Ben Thorne - 27/Mar/04

Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade?
Surely it should be graded for the easiest way up it? With this route there IS only one way and the crux is no harder than English 5c. The route to the left is 6c and the crux is ten times harder.
AND! what's the long reach symbol for? gads...
F6b+ MAX.
Ben Thorne - 13/Aug/05

I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
Richard Horn - 12/Sep/05

Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
Mick Ward - 12/Sep/05

Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
Richard Horn - 12/Sep/05

It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island).
I'm 5'7" and like I said, found it impossible without the crucial foothold - once in position it made it easy.
Ben Thorne - 11/Dec/05

Been back on this, clearly I was weak before did the top move no problem - 6b+ or soft 6c...
Richard Horn - 12/Nov/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.