Rusty Chubblock Seeks Oil of Lubrication

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< The Ramp < Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention  |  Evening Mistress > Men Behaving Badly >>

This route has stumped many over the years. The first bolt is shared with Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention.
FA. Martin Crocker 15.4.1990


This routes bloody hard - even for 7b; and it used to 7a+!
ben stokes - 13/Jan/01

Rob mirfin - 05/Dec/01

Perhaps it might be Fr7b for someone with no fingers, else its easy Fr7a
goi ashmore - 11/Apr/02

This is pretty much a four move boulder problem - a reachy rock-over into sharp, fingery holds. I thought V3ish so F7b is probably about right.
matt perks - 17/Jun/10

Broke the crux crimp. Sorry. It only crumbled a tiny bit and for a hold on any other route would be totally inconsequential, but there really wasn't much there to begin with - there was a crozzly thumb catch on top that as critical for me to hang the hold, that is now gone. Certainly harder for me now - I was quite close to doing the route, but can't hold the crimp in its current state.
Nick - 28/May/13

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