Amen Corner

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Evening Mistress < Men Behaving Badly  |  Mousefolk > Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth >>

The slim corner in the arete is the line of this intense pitch. Pull up steeply to gain the corner and follow it all the way to the top.


An airy first section, finishing with lovely well protected climbing. An excellent trad route, a great alternative to the surrounding sports routes when you're after a bit of excitement. Well worthy of its star.
Jez - 25/May/03

Now bolted
S.C - 09/Sep/04

Bolted - really?

By whom?
steve taylor - 10/Sep/04

it's a weird one this as it's been listed in the miniguide on rockfax as being bolted and a 4+ for a while now but i was down there a month or so ago and my mate lead it on trad gear and there didn't appear to be any bolts in it. Plus if it's VS 5A why would it get 4+ on the database - surely it should be 5 or 5+? very confusing and possibly someone mixing up routes again? Until the new guide comes out it's all goign to get more confusing i suspect...
Wilbur - 10/Sep/04

The listing in the Portland miniguide is a mistake.
Ben Stokes - 10/Sep/04

I can confirm that there are no bolts in Amen Corner
Ben Stokes - 13/Sep/04

There are now!
Nic - 26/Mar/08

Makes a nice easy 5+ now. was slightly disturbed to find a large group top-roping buggery out of it on arrival (4 days after it was first bolted according to the tag). Why do people have to congregate around one single route for 3 hrs?
Wilbur - 26/Mar/08

Did this years ago on trad and cannot see how it would now make 5+. Not any where near as hard as the Sod. Grade 4 for sure...
JIMBO - 01/Apr/08

Yes, much easier than The Sod (hard 5+...getting on for 6a with the polish), and if it weren't for the start it would be a 4/4+ (is there such a thing?). I think easy 5 is about right.
Nic - 01/Apr/08

chaps.... 5a tech = 5+ !!! where's the dilemna. the sod is clearly 6a.
Wilbur - 03/Apr/08

5a tech = 5+ ??!! Something fishy about that equation, looks like utter carp to me ;)
JIMBO - 03/Apr/08

To be honest it's a shame someone bolted it, made a nice change as a trad line and was a neat little route, it'll get polished to buggery now no doubt!
Alex - 07/Apr/08

It was bolted (by me) with the permission of the first ascentionist and in line with the agreed bolt policy for the area.
Nic - 07/Apr/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.