Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
A hard and technical route with three difficult sections.
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A really rewarding route.
I thought this route was very hard for the grade. The lower to mid height crux is nigh on impossible if you're under 6 foot...
There is a trick to this one that makes it reasonable at the grade, for the Cuttings that is!
After failing on this route on numerous occasions with the moves totally wired, I finally realised what the name is all about! Finally got it done though!
From the break at a third of the way up the route, this climb has three distinct "cruxes". The first is difficult to get straight from the ground, the second is a dyno or a tricky static move and the third is a very technical rockover and highstep. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
Absolute Classic.....maybe the best route at the cuttings?
found this really very good but hard hard hard. Technical grappling with features. Took ages to redpoint, everything had to be exactly right and even when I got it each of the three cruxes felt very drop-able. Some unusual and testing moves!
An ok but not great route for me. Felt fair for the grade although curious about the trick mentioned above.
The wording seems to have got lost in the latest edition but IMHO the last guide had it exactly right - 'the first crux can be avoided via an easier way up on the right if needed - but that's cheating, of course' - The direct version involves a really cool boulder problem to reach the mid height break, that is quite reach dependent. If you can't make the reach the right hand version is an alternative, however it makes the route substantially easier (and not as good IMHO), although still 7b+.
At last! What an effort! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third crux is really hard as now that the old hold has gone, you have to make the move from just a pinch - and that coming on top of the other two cruxes. The first one is pretty hard if you go direct (which you should) and the second isn't a pushover either. The whole climb felt solid 7c to me, maybe as hard as 7c+. For those about 4" taller than me with very good footwork, the top crux may still go at 7b+ but judging by what I have seen, such persons may find the first crux harder than those of us a little shorter. Anyway, very happy to get this clean in the end!