1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Stroof < Graunchy Grippers  |  Back Street > High Street >>

Great gear and superb moves on the upper section make this one a must do. Take a direct line to the roof then pull over into the interesting main groove. The finish is a touch polished.


The easiest VS 5a at Swanage. If you want something harder at VS,try Ledgend Direct or Revelation Chimney. Fantastically well protected moves up groove lead to slimy finger slot and a hard pull on to the ledge.
John Yates - 24/Jun/03

Fantastically well protected but I still managed to fall from the top move and hit the ground!
David Hunt - 03/Jul/03

This was my first ever VS lead. Spent 10 mins with my feet on the ledge contemplating the crux, by which time a layer of sweat had developed on the polished finger slot. Finally pulled through the moves to the top which I might have done more calmly if I hadnt spent so long thinking about it.
Richard Horn - 26/Aug/03

A climb with a reputation - near the top i found the greasy handholds just as i was getting pumped but then managaged to down climb and to a rest position. Got it clean on my second shot - impressed myself no end as this was my first proper trip out of the season.
Albie - 20/May/04

Poliahed piece of crap. Managed to back off it once then fall off it! I don't like it, however, next time...
Oli - 14/Jun/05

Polished even.
Oli - 14/Jun/05

Would be good if it wasn't so polished at the top.
SARS - 26/Sep/05

classicly polished limestone
Jon Greengrass - 05/Feb/06

Wheres the 5a bit? Not hard at VS
Michael - 12/Mar/07

Where's the 5a bit?! try the move from the polished to buggery slot through to crap flat limestone slopers near the top!!!
Wilbur - 20/Jul/07

Wilbur learn to fingerlock standard VS 4c. What slopers anyway u get good jugs near the top.
Dohnny Jawes - 29/Jul/07

VS 4c Wilbur, Dohnny's got it in 1
Michael - 02/Aug/07

i can finger lock thanks and have done on E1s!! I stand by my earlier comments.
Wilbur - 06/Aug/07

Fingers stuck in slot (I think it needs more polish). 'Interesting main groove' is the only 'interesting' part of it. Interesting...
Dave Foster - 22/Aug/08

Unusual route with some different moves in the top groove. But once you get the mega jug under the overhang just pull for glory.
Bomber gear in the upper crack
Mark Reed - 29/Sep/11

Really easy for grade! Anyone who thinks this is 5a is high. Go climb the first pitch on "Tatra" and compare. Debatable whether it warrants VS even.
Luuuke - 01/Apr/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.