First Corner Top 50

2 Stars
 S 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Puffin < The Indirect Route  |  Philatus > Poetry in Motion >>

Excellent moves and good gear up the bottomless corner. Keep an eye out for a loose block near to the top of the pitch.


This was my first Severe Lead and only my second ever trad lead. By the time we got to the top it was dark, raining and thundering, but I was elated. Scared the shit out of my mate tho'.
I've climbed it three times since.
des - 24/May/00

in reply to des: yes, i could smell the shit at the bottom of the route - it stank! and there was me thinking there was a sewerage outlet nearby.
as for the route, bloody cold when we did it and at the end of a long day so it felt more like vs 4c.
ian - 19/Nov/01

Should be classed as a VDiff (0), not a particularly good climb. Especially for new Trad'ers, do not let the grade fool you, it is easy but if you fall your gear will probably be of little use as the ledge and rocks below you will break your fall and maybe bones before your gear will. One of the rocks on the second last move of the climb is quite loose and a could do the belayer and climber some serious damage if it were pulled off. Do Second Corner it is a much more worthy outing and rated to low in my opinion.
Gary - 18/Mar/02

I can confirm the loose block at the top. You naturally pull up on it, but it's not obvious it's loose until you step on it. It's large and could cause some damage when it goes.
ChrisP - 06/Sep/02

No way should this be a VDiff Gary. Some of the moves in the middle section are dam hard ie 4b.
Steve - 27/Nov/02

Oooooops I meant my above comments to go on Second corner ..... sorry Gary.
Steve - 27/Nov/02

'first corner' is a isnt easy and gets u thinking.perhaps Gary should ask himself why he climbs!we are not all E grade climbers.some of us just enjoy it at any level.
bazza - 24/Aug/03

This is a very good top end severe. Peakies might be in for a surprise - it will feel like VS 4b to them !
GrahamD - 15/Dec/04

never vd but always a cracking climb
tom - 16/Jun/05

I liked it too. Not sure about the VDiff comments, I felt it was spot on Sev 4b and deserved a star or two to boot.
Clinger - 25/Jul/05

V diff my arse! Found it harder than some HVS's!!
kath G - 10/Sep/05

I didn't think much of this, even though I normally like awkward routes. It's a bit polished which may have put me off, although it's not that bad that you slip off any of the holds.
cider nut - 12/Sep/05

Our consensus (4 of us) was that this should be a VS 4C.(Personally I think its harder!)
Rob Gowen - 05/Jul/07

Rob your on drugs the crux is at the bottom with bomber pro and is easy for 4b anyway. A typical Severe 4b u must think VS is E7??
Michael - 10/Jul/07

Good climbing and felt ok at HS 4b, which I think is what our guidebook put it at.
Dave Foster - 22/Aug/08

Good honest fun, brief thoughtful moment at the crux (onto the sloping platform) but so well protected that there's never any real peril. Enjoyable climb.
Mark Reed - 20/Feb/11

And the loose block is still there !!
Mark Reed - 20/Feb/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.