Poetry in Motion

1 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< First Corner < Philatus  |  Second Corner > Freda >>

A direct line parallel to Philatus, but on smaller holds. Staying directly on line maintains the grade. Starting slightly left and moving right in the middle section makes things easier (E2 5c) but still worthwhile.
FA. Pete Oxley 19.2.1984


Easier to protect than Philatus!
Biglad - 08/Mar/00

Easier than Stroof.
Al Evans - 24/Sep/01

Overgraded and underated!
Al Evans - 24/Sep/01

Now easier than Stroof. It looks like a small block has come out (about 2/3rds of the way up) resulting in a small hold now becoming considerably bigger. Now definitely easier than it was.
Jason - 05/Apr/02

very nice technical route but disappointed that i couldn't honestly say it was an e3, or even 6a.
ian bryant - 30/May/03

If you follow the original line it is definitely E3 6a. Unfortunately it is all to easy to skirt the bottom hard moves by starting slightly left and miss out the harder upper middle section by moving a little right for a move.
Tim Dunsby - 11/Jul/04

Suprised this has same grade as Philatus (worth E2 5B). PiM is technically harder (staying left above mid height), more sustained and less protected. Have not climbed recently - perhaps the (missing) small block is causing the grade dispute!
John Godding - 13/Dec/05

finally did this on Saturday, felt about e2 5c, but very eliminate to stay on the line, nice all the same though
felix - 26/Nov/07

each time i do this it leads me right towards second corner near the top. is that wrong? should i be ignoring the holds leading me right and instead go more direct through the undercut overlap to finish?
either way, it's clearly very eliminate but very good all the same.
ianb - 05/Oct/09

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