Grandma's Groove

2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Second Corner < Freda  |  Grandpa's Grope > Pedestal Crack >>

Boldly climb the fingery lower wall to safe, but still hard, moves up the narrow groove.
FA. Tony Wilmott 7.1965


Bold is right! Some offset wires might help though. Once you reach the groove, there's loads of gear to be had and I thought the moves weren't really that hard either. The bottom of the route seemed harder to me.
Jason - 08/May/01

Great little route, I'm going well at the moment and I thought is was worth E3 (i'd settle for E2) but definately 5c.
Mike Raine - 04/Jul/03

A story!
1972 - Attempt on TR, wearing plimsolls (totally pumped). In those days never saw anybody on it.
1976 - Another failed TR attempt.
Easter 1977, bus from Wareham, walked from Swanage, grabbed an unknown belayer and then led the route - clipping all the pegs plus the odd wire. One of 'my' great routes! (HVS 5b then)
John Godding - 22/Dec/05

Enjoyable route. Bold at the start but holds are generally positive if small. By Swanage standards, this is one of the more accessible and least committing E2s.
Steve Grey - 28/Jul/08

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