1 Stars
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ice Queen < Sun King  |  Via Concordia > Big Bertha >>

Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best climbed as a single pitch.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the right-hand side of the massive block and then move left to ascend a crack to an awkward belay at the fault-line.
2) 4b, 18m. Surmount a bulge and trend rightwards past a ledge and small corner to another smaller ledge. Exit to the left of a small roof at the top.
FA. Richard Crewe, Kenny Winkworth, R.Kent 4.5.1969


Found the groove upto the break strenuous. On reaching the break it was difficult to find any really good pro. A couple of cams - sort of on rock sort of on soil! and a sling round a crumbly boss. Second pitch is run out but straightforward climbing for 4b/4c - fortunately given the dodgy belay below. Oh I probably did it all wrong !
Alaric - 12/Jan/04

nice first pitch with quite a committing move up the corner chimney. reasonable belay can be had if you search for it. getting over the roof at the start of the second pitch is fairly easy and the second pitch is probably only 4b but there's little definite line to follow and gear can be a bit sparse unless you wander around to find it!
ian bryant - 21/Nov/05

Another great example of two-pitch adventure climbing at Boulder Ruckle. Ian's comments above are spot on.
John Parker - 18/Aug/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.