The Golden Fleece

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Baker's Dozen < Argo  |  Moose's Tooth > Behemoth >>

A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top.
FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 2.8.1975


The move off the belay is steep and committing with poor pro above until the main groove. Either there has been a minor rockfall or we went the wrong way, though we followed the guidebook routing. The move is an intimidating 5b/c.
paul kidd - 16/Feb/01

I agree but I dont think theres been a rockfall, it probably is 5b. Good solid climbing.
Al Evans - 10/Sep/01

I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady.
johnny - 03/Jan/03

The crux move off the ledge takes a littlke thought but is quickly done - I'd expecta 5a leader to be able to do it. Also don't agree that the crux is poorly protected. Good fun, route but not sustained.
Will - 07/Sep/03

agree with johnny that the first pitch is probably harder as it's more sustained with only suspect gear in blind flaring cracks- hard 5a would be my guess. the second pitch is really only 5a but very strenuous until you find something to stand on!
ian - 01/Oct/03

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.