Sweet SA

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< 'B' Line < Buzz Light Year  |  All Guns Blazing > The Heidelberg Creature >>

A challenging climb featuring a tough first pitch and a fine upper pitch shared with 'B' Line. High in the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a ledge. Continue to the fault-line and belay over to the left next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up and leftwards to below a groove. Climb the grey wall boldly up right and then back left to the groove. Climb this with difficulty past an old peg to the top.
FA. F.Clarke, Al Alvarez 1963


Climbed a couple of weeks ago more out of neccesity.We had wanted to climb the Heidlburg Creature but were stumped by the commiting move on the first pitch out onto the arete.( see comments below).After two or three attempts each we moved onto Sweet SA thinking we were in for a night listening to the tide or a prussik up the abseil rope if we couldn't climb out. Luckily the pressure must have pushed us as we topped out both enjoying the climb and the relief!
Looks like a less popular route than the classics but very worthy and superb second pitch.
steve gee - 21/Oct/03

Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove.
ramon marin martinez - 05/Sep/05

Agree with the comment above. The second pitch is wrongly, and possibly dangerously, marked in the guide. The line marked looks much harder than VS. For the description I suggest "Make a rising traverse left to a peg and climb the grey wall and groove above." It's not bold but it is hard for VS.
Martin Hore - 26/Sep/06

Shame I didn't read this first! I followed the line in the guide for the 2nd pitch and thought it was both hard and bold - possibly E1 5b! And crap too!
ianb - 19/Apr/09

Got back on this again and after going too far up the corner on the first pitch and turning it into more of a 5b than 4c I then started up the 2nd pitch the same way as last time having forgotten all the comments above, then decided to come back down and traverse left, a long way left, to the base of a shallow right facing corner with a peg at the bottom, which leads with good climbing to the top.
ianb - 16/Oct/11

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