Marmolata Buttress

2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Tatra < Marmolata Arete  |  Marmolata Combination > Director's Groove >>

A gnarly first pitch leads to fine and varied climbing on the east face of the buttress.
1) 5c, 12m. Start as for the last route then climb a thin crack with difficulty to a large ledge on the seaward face.
2) 5b, 15m. Traverse around the corner to a groove leading to the fault-line. Traverse right again to a second groove which leads onto a ledge. Belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 15m. Step left out onto the wall where a lovely flake system leads to the top.
FA. Gordon Smith, Richard Crewe 2.6.1973,FFA. George Hounsome, Scott Titt 20.11.1977


Fine climbing even if it's not an entirely natural line.
Mike Raine - 09/Jun/03

Very soft at E3
Adam Lincoln - 24/Apr/06

Good route, with an excellent and sustained first pitch shame it’s only 10m long! Possibly a bit soft for e3, I thought the first pitch was pretty tricky but then I don’t often climb at this grade.
felix - 24/Apr/06

3 great pitches. first pitch has great technical climbing and 2nd has a short section of committing 5c. 3rd pitch almost gave me cramp in my biceps!
ian bryant - 27/May/07

I thought the first pitch was quite tough. There are no hard moves - barely 5c - but it is steep, strenuous, sustained, and the gear takes time to place; solid E3 in my opinion. The other two pitches are a grade easier. Overall this is an excellent little expedition.
matt perks - 30/May/09

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