The Adventures of Portland Bill

2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Thunder Groove < Gypsy  |  Strongbow > Vortices >>

An unusual low-level traverse that provides a long and interesting tour of some of the very best rock and positions on this section of cliff. Well protected and easily combined with the excellent pitch of White Dwarf to give a better ending. Start as for Elysium.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the large crack on Elysium to a ledge, then move right along a twin horizontal break until a step down gains a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 17m. Follow the breaks rightwards to a spike belay at the edge of the wall, on Acapulco.
3) 5b, 10m. Climb the flake-crack on the right to the fault-line - strenuous - then belay on the right in the fault-line.
4) 4c, 20m. Ascend flakes on the right, then move leftwards steeply to a roof. Cross this and continue up the exit corner.
FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 9.8.1986


best E2 traverse ever - full of positive holds and complex hand crossing
tom - 19/Mar/06

This is indeed excellent. We picked this for a wild day when the starts of most routes at Swanage were getting pounded. The start of Elysium was dry but everything right of this was soaking. It turned out to be a good choice for these conditions and was bone dry given the strong breeze and sunshine. I think it would be okay with a competent HVS/E1 climber seconding - not too nasty to second as traverses go.
matt perks - 23/Jul/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.