2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gypsy < The Adventures of Portland Bill  |  Vortices > The Mace >>

Similar quality to Gypsy (page 291 ) with some nice steep climbing. Start at a right-facing corner. High in the grade.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the corner and move left around an arete to a ledge. Trend rightwards to another ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb cracks above, passing the fault-line with conviction and move up to a second roof. Traverse right to a shallow corner (peg) then continue to a bigger corner and finish up it.
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 19.5.1974


A superb route, as good as and as hard as Gypsy.
Al Evans - 24/Sep/01

An excellent route, far better if done as one pitch with 60m (maybe 50m?) ropes, which may help bump it up to E2
Kevin Stephens - 06/Sep/04

Brilliant route nicely sustained but never desperate. Did it in two pitches and found it ok for E1.
felix - 31/Jan/05

very enjoyable
ian bryant - 06/Jun/05

Brilliant route, great positions, nice moves - both pitches very worthwhile - but better still just do it in one pitch. Far more Swanage.... Slightly easier than Gypsy in my opinion - but still great.
Ben Darvill - 14/Nov/05

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