3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
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A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the line.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the crack and strenuously gain an overhanging corner which leads to the fault-line.
2) 5b, 18m. Pull through the roof above and move up to another one. Step right and over the roof then continue up the right-hand of two grooves. At the top step left to an exit scramble.
FA. Gordon Smith, Richard Crewe 4.9.1971,FFA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1977


Superb route but is it really 5c?
Ian Milward - 06/Sep/02

felt about that to me
ap - 15/Jun/04

ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
Kevin Stephens - 06/Sep/04

I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
davey - 19/Aug/05

A one move 2nd pitch followed by VS ground detracts somewhat but a fine line.
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05

seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage.
the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
ian bryant - 13/Feb/06

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