Kelly's Eliminate

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Kelly's Crack < Kelly's Eye  |  Spring Sunshine > October Crack >>

Excellent climbing up the centre of the buttress. The start is steep and strenuous, although on good holds. The upper section is delicate and poorly protected.
FA. Harry Kelly late 1910s. An eliminate from the time before eliminates.


The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS.
Reds - 05/Nov/02

The start is deffinitely hard for severe. But Crow Chin as a whole is a nice piece of rock.
baron von odds - 17/Mar/03

The start is deffinitely hard for severe. But Crow Chin as a whole is a nice piece of rock.
baron von odds - 17/Mar/03

I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route.
DaveF - 27/May/03

Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff!
Simon Caldwell - 28/Jul/03

There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right.
Simon C - 28/Jul/03

Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't!
Simon Caldwell - 28/Jul/03

This seems a serious undergrade especially compared to the nearby routes of Autumn Gold (HS,4a) and Bright Eyed (VS,4b). The latter were easy for the grade and lead you into a false sense of 'security' for this route.
JG Smith - 22/Aug/04

Good route. The grading at HS seems fair.
David Berry - 29/Sep/08

I would say this is potentially undergraded. It feels like 4b with very little protection. If you lead high-end VS, then you probably won't notice, but if VD/HS is your normal leading, you need to be careful on this one.
pero kalugerovich - 20/Apr/09

Technically straightforward after a couple of moves off the deck. No way anywhere near VS.
GrahamD - 28/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 73
    hard VS 0 of 9
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    easy VS 2 of 9
    hard HS 1 of 9
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    3 Stars 2 of 32
    2 Stars 24 of 32
    1 Star 5 of 32
    0 Stars 1 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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