Wall of the Worlds Top 50

3 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mother Africa < The Great Hunter House Milk Robbery  |  The Last Hurrah of the Golden Horde > The Ramp >>

A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa.Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug, but without much respite, to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12.6.1983


Best single pitch I've climbed at Swanage. In fact, I liked it so much I've done it 3 times. Not recently though :-(
Roger Austin - 09/May/04

A Global classic and definitely E5. Awesome.
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05

Great gear and 1 tricky move. One of the best E4s around.
Simon Witcher - 08/Jun/06

E4 or E5? Many a pint drunk discussing this. Harder than Mother Africa, well more sustained really. Who cares, it is a fantastic pitch, as good as any E4/E5 in the country.
Richard White - 25/Mar/07

A fair bit harder than Mother Africa and solid E5 I thought. Amazing route. I pulled a hold off just below the top which might make the top moves a little bit trickier.
Ged Desforges - 16/Mar/09

Wow! What a battle!
ianb - 25/Aug/14

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