2 Stars
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Dark Side of the Sun < Nassty Spider  |  Judgement Day > Bottomless Buttress >>

Good climbing and very exposed. Start at a cave just west of a huge undercut buttress. Low in the grade.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner above the cave, then at the fault-line, move right to belay on a thread around an ammonite.
2) 4c, 15m. Ascend leftwards to a crack in the roof and pull around in a sensational position to continuation cracks. These lead to a ledge and the exit corner as for Nassty Spider.
FA. Pete Crew, P.A.Bell 29.8.1964


Excellent position on the top pitch. Good gear, but reasonably pumpy to place. Good route
Jason - 13/Aug/01

Easy tick for the grade. Not as loose as it looks. Crux on pitch 2 very short with monster holds round the roof.
John Yates - 11/Jun/02

Good as a single pitch with careful rope work
Kevin Stephens - 06/Sep/04

18/4/14 - great soft intro to HVS on the ruckle (there are harder VS's). It does however require a determined approach leading P2 without a fuss - just go straight up diagonally left place the good gear and then pull over the slight overhang on massive jugs - all over too soon :-(
Mark Reed - 09/May/14

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