Bottomless Buttress

1 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Aventura < Judgement Day  |  Silhouette Arete > The Fin >>

A worthwhile and enjoyable climb that is in the main well protected and on good holds. Start on the right-hand side of the big undercut buttress.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner on the right and traverse left to gain the front of the buttress. Two cracks lead to the fault-line and a good ledge (large nut belay).
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up for 5m then move right to climb a corner to finish. The final half of this pitch is on less than perfect rock.
FA. I.Howell, A.Hartley, A.Rowe 16.6.1964


A very enjoyable route, we found it quite easy for the grade and where pleasantly surprised that we could actually climb out of Boulder Ruckle!
Gary Wilson - 15/Apr/02

This was a real joy. Good holds and protection all the way on the first pitch make it really satisfying. Wasn't sure where the two cracks at the end of pitch 1 were ( further across the butress face ? )so climbed straight up from the obvious good stance at the start of the face - a little tricky for 4b but OK.
SLW - 23/Jul/02

Not a bad route. The climbing is technically easy and well protected. The second pitch was very loose and dusty....almost worth a little bag symbol...?
Ewan - 07/Oct/02

This was my first route at the Ruckle and I really enjoyed it. I led the first pitch, and was emitting some strange noises when I got cramp bridging the first move! The move off the belay was fairly tough too, we went slightly left onto the face (same as SLW?), not sure if that's correct.
cider nut - 12/Sep/05

Second pitch only has around 5 metres of decent climbing, after this it is very loose and dirty.
Mark Ryder - 31/May/11

Be careful on P2 - one of the worst top outs (even by ruckle standards)
Mark Reed - 09/May/14

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