3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
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A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above.
FA. Richard Crewe and Team 16.6.1968 - Pitch 1. Howard Lancashire, Pete Holden 31.3.1975 - Pitch 2.


A brilliant route, one of it's best at the grade at Swanage.However, when I climbed it on the 18/6/00 there was no belay stake at the top. I had a very worrying time belayed to a rotten fence post and the grass (!) about twenty yards off to the side of the route top out. Luckily my second didn't fall off!!!!
Richard - 22/Jun/00

Superb route, but still no stake.. slings attached to a collection of thorny shrubs above the top seemed pretty solid. Climbed on 10/09/00
Mark - 11/Sep/00

Brilliant, made me take up painting!
Jim - 09/Aug/01

Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.
Neil - 07/May/05

Good climbing but very dirty - why haven't more people been climbing this route?
Andy - 01/Aug/05

Enjoyable route at the grade, but agree about the pong and assorted remains at the stance. Good stakes right above now, but rt hand one is a bit buried
brian mead - 28/Aug/05

Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
Owen W-G - 23/May/06

Good old Swanage HVS fun!
ianb - 19/Apr/09

I've only just started getting into Swanage HVS and thought that this was a fantastic route. Just need to be a bit careful on P1 as the first part is very slippery and green. The pull into the groove is good value for 4c but it's all there. P2 is simply sensational. The pull through the small bulge is soon over though, and is well protected by some old tat. Superb Swanage adventure !
Mark Reed - 25/May/14

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