2 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Atomic Road Hero < Theory of Everything  |  In a Big Sky > Land of the Leaning >>

A full-body work-out with reasonable gear. Start easily as for Theory of Everything then take the big cracks to the right up the steep wall (thread) pulling over a bulge to a ledge. An easy groove leads to the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.1986


Having seconded this, it's a good route, well-protected provided the thread is in good nick (which it was - Dec. 2004). The grade seems fair - not too desperate technically, but very steep and pumpy, and it doesn't let up until you're on the ledge. A belay rope is a good idea; this is fine if it's on the flat ledge you can see from the grass slope at the top.
matt perks - 13/Dec/04

Wow! Full body work out I'll say! There is resonable gear, provided you can hang around and place it. The thread is still OK (06 June 2007) but place wires in the crack next to it. Pulling over the bulge on to the ledge is tricky when pumped. A belay rope is a very good idea!! I didn't have one and had to tip toe up near vertical mud! Awesome route!
Richard White - 08/Jun/07

Really good route, but the thread isn't in too good nick now (march 09). Good gear nearby, but very pumpy to place it. Would be a fair bit easier if the tat was bomber i think. Definitely worth having the ab rope in place for the top, once on the ledge, horrible and loose.
Ged Desforges - 16/Mar/09

Thread looked pretty new on 17.5.15
ianb - 17/May/15

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