The Marmoset

1 Stars
 HS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Bent Crack < New Year's Eve  |  Autumn Gold > Clare >>

A one-pull-wonder. Power through the centre of the roof of the cave using the jammed blocks gently. Easy climbing remains.


Simply stand in the cave undercut the crack, take the jug at arms length ( i'm 6'1") do a 2 arm pull up, heel hook, one-arm lock of with your right and reach up to the second jug with the left.
sorry but sounds like a V3? boulder problem to me
Jon Greengrass - 20/Mar/03

Bit of a stiff pull - at least 5a in my book, but well protected, with much easier climbing above.
Nick Smith - 05/Apr/03

Definitely harder than 4c. Probably 5a/b.
DaveF - 27/May/03

I think hard 5a.
Huw J - 27/May/03

Dunc P - 25/Jul/03

I'm reasonably comfortable with both delicate and thuggy 4c moves, and this felt much harder.
David Barnes - 26/Jul/03

V3 is a very sensible suggestion. I think it's harder than 4c too.
David Jones - 26/Jul/03

A good route with an interesting crux at the beginning but is easily protectable. A strenuous start but fair at 4c.
Richard Kershaw - 05/Sep/03

I reckon the move is about 5a as well. Although I also think it's more of a boulder problem than a route - you can quite easily jump off the crux without hurting yourself, and the climbing after that is very easy. I soloed it, and I only lead HS!
Stuart Fox - 25/Apr/04

Much harder than 4c!
Tyler - 14/Nov/04

Thought it was fair at 4c - not technically hard, you just need some flexibility and the ability to lock off.

There's a good right-hand jam in the right crack which helps, too.
Richard Kemp - 01/Jun/05

V3 is english 6a/5c. This is neither, good suggestion to have a bouldering grade coz it is a bouldering problem but closer to V0 or V1
Moomin Lord - 02/Jun/05

agreed v3 is well to high, 4c 5a move but very high dependent. im 6'4 and soloed it quite easily, my friend, better climber but short, couldnt do it. just have a go!
jamesturnbull - 19/Jun/05

Great fun, but not really a route. One pull up then it's all over. Better go up the rock fin at the back for a few extra feet. VD 4c?
bendoniumayebendonium - 25/Oct/05

In reply to Richard - 'fair at just need the ability to lock off'. Please could you show me any other 4c moves where the ability to lock off is crucial? It's at least 5a if not 5b.
Andy Hobson - 03/Jun/06

I think the first move was really good but when youve done it the routes basically favourite HS 4c so far
wade palmer - 18/Jul/06

Very easy rest of the route. But the move is at least v1.
james oswald - 05/Aug/08

V0+. Please don't give it a route grade out of tradition, it isn't a route. There are so many highballs/short routes given only bouldering grades now, which devalue the effort that goes in, then you give this one a route grade when it isn't even highball, it's just a plain V0+.

I know the whole "is it a route or a boulder problem?" thing seems to give guidebook writers a lot of trouble - but sometimes it's obvious!
Jon Stewart - 15/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard VS 0 of 31
    VS 0 of 31
    easy VS 8 of 31
    hard HS 1 of 31
    HS 17 of 31
    easy HS 4 of 31
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    hard ?? 2 of 2
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    3 Stars 1 of 28
    2 Stars 9 of 28
    1 Star 15 of 28
    0 Stars 3 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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