2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pearly Gate < Eskimo Nell  |  Archangel > Peacemaker >>

A popular route with varied climbing in good situations. Start at the left-hand side of a high, arched recess 5m right of a large block. Climb the groove on the left until a move left gain the lip of an overhang. Pull up slightly left then back right into a bulging groove. Climb this to finish up two short walls.
FA. D.Rowlands 1963


How early do you go left round the overhang ? Go early for less overhang, later for better holds.
Ewan - 15/Aug/00

Wish I knew! Found the remains od several rusty pegs and the foothold that is probably used, but eventually wimped out. I'm obviously not the first as there was a jammed Rock 7 complete with extender on 19 Oct 02 - made my retreat much easier!
Helen - 27/Oct/02

soft touch at the grade, lots of in situ metal
dave romsey - 13/Feb/03

Traverse around under the roof where there is a horizontal crack (for hands). Step across to the nose on the outside corner. Good holds around the corner. I nearly wimped out before trying this move, but it turned out to be not as difficult as it first appeared.
John Wellbelove - 31/May/03

The step across on to the overhang is quite straightforward. The moves after up a steep wall require some thought, but the difficulties soon ease.
Allan McCall - 02/Oct/03

Stepping across was ok once committed, but the wall after!
Most of the good holds looked or felt like they were about to come off in your hand, maybe I was just having a bad evening?
Andy H - 21/Jul/04

Took more than one attempt to make the fairly committing traverse (not actually too bad). The wall after is steep (overhanging) but on nice big holds and decent gear.

Make sure you use half ropes!
featuresforfeet - 24/Oct/05

Wimped out on the traverse onto the nose as I couldn't really protect the move. Experience required placing the pro as the route meanders. Twin ropes would be good. Can't wait to try it again. Can't comment on the top half of the route as I never managed to get that far!!
Mike Eldred - 12/Apr/07

Straightforward climbing on big positive holds in a spectacluar position. Use double ropes. Move left at the top of the groove onto the wall, then the move up from there is slightly puzzling as a hold has come off. Still no more then 4c though. Good route.
John Parker - 27/Feb/08

CurlyStevo - 21/Apr/14

18/4/14 - BE BLOODY CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure that if you do this route the correct way it's fine, but like a lot of others I didn't !!!
It's very easy to keep traversing around onto the face (and totally miss the blocky groove) which is obvious from photographs. This leaves you moving up a fairly blank face without a great deal of gear (and with the prospect of a good lead fall with a swing - which has resulted in a helicopter ride to hospital). I ended up very pumped and scared, but managed to traverse back right across the face to the very old yellow stuck gear with a jammed snapgate.
Finally after clipping it I wobbled to the top, and then straight to the pub !!!!!
Mark Reed - 09/May/14

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