3 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Sons of Pioneers < Tudor Rose  |  Oceanid > Fly Crazy But Free >>

Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good on the hardest sections. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the good, small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the fault-line and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread.
2) 6a, 25m. From the fault-line, move up right for 5m and then step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Stand on the ledge, and traverse rightwards to a blocky corner. Climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 8.1.1983


Both pitches are fantastic. Nice climbing with good protection.
stone - 31/May/01

You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too).
matt perks - 26/Oct/04

You have to trust the pegs on pitch 2. Also run out above belay. Very good.
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05

i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope
felix - 11/Dec/06

The pegs on the second pitch are starting to show their age. I think the first pair can be backed up but I'm not sure that the higher peg can be. They're probably still okay for the moment but get it done soon!
matt perks - 01/Mar/09

I disagree with the description that 'the gear is very good on the hardest sections'.
there is loads of gear on the hard bit of the first pitch.
I agree with the comment above that it's hard to find good gear after the belay, but it's worth putting some in to back it up even if it's right next to it as there's not much else before the pegs and the second pitch is very reliant on the pegs (which are not reliable), and once gone, might make this route very serious. that said, it's excellent climbing that's not precarious, so as long as you're strong enough it's fine. I considered finishing straight up the final headwall - the wall looks doable but the top looks horrendously loose and would be right above your hanging belayer.
ianb - 14/Sep/15

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