2 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tudor Rose < Facedancin'  |  Fly Crazy But Free > Warlord >>

The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of Tudor Rose on a boulder pile.
1) 5a, 20m. From the top of the boulders, move out left across a slab to the base of a broken crack-line. Follow the crack-line, past a niche, and move right to a thread belay on a ledge on the slab.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up left to the fault-line and gain the wall passing a bulge on the left. Follow a steep groove direct, stepping left at its top. Pass a big wedged-in block to gain the exit corner. A couple of large cams are useful on this pitch.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, K.Goodman 5.8.1972


Quite serious first pitch, with some loose rock when I did it. The peg in the first pitch is useless rust.
The top pitch is good, and scary too. Recommend you take a large friend or two for the top groove (Size 3.5 or 4)
A. Smith - 16/Mar/00

First pitch is not serious now, a good well protected pitch. We pulled some loose stuff off at the top of the second pitch but it left solid rock behind, Steady for the grade and worth 2 stars.
Al Evans - 10/Sep/01

WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.
Mark Stevenson - 20/Aug/02

baron von odds - 11/Mar/03

A couple of blokes climbed it this weekend whilst we were on Tudor Rose without any undue problems, so don't be put off by the above comments. The top groove will always be loose but then you wouldn't exactly climb at swanage if you were averse to the odd few kilos of rubble
alexis perry - 26/Aug/03

agreed - climbed it in october and there was some looseness at the top, but nothing untoward for swanage. and first pitch is now solid
ben - 06/Nov/03

Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
Paz - 27/Sep/04

I’ve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today.

The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it.

It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it.

The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it.

Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial.

If anyone has any comments reply to my post on ukclimbing
matt perks - 26/Oct/04

The amazing loose spike is still there and looks great but it probably should be cleaned and then it would be a *** route.
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05

this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
Geoff Odds - 13/Oct/05

Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think it’s seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
felix - 11/Dec/06

seemed very steady. no really hard bits just sustained crack climbing and jug pulling. then some tip toeing around the blocks at the top!
ianb - 14/Sep/15

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