Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
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Fantastic main (2nd) pitch. First pitch is loose and poorly protected, take care. Top out is loose, a rope
Great climbing but even halfway up the main pitch I found a wobbly block. Dont pull on the dodgy flake
Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!
Just for the records, I notice that it says in the description that the first ascent is unknown.
Perhaps the author should have consulted the CC guide - the FA is in there.
I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
i thought this was pretty full on for E4. The top is hard, and you're pumped. BUt maybe it was just really cold and I was out of shape. End of the summer on a warm day, it might feel different. Awesome pitch, plenty gear, go for it.
similar experiences to above, plus the fact that it was only about 4 degrees yesterday and thrusting my hands into those frosty cracks was not very conducive to pulling through the crux moves! the moves past the last peg deserve 6a i think, not least because from moving off the belay until you get to the finishing holds you're on your arms - on reaching the finishing holds you're forced to stop pulling as if not they'll end up in the sea - the top out is insanely loose, even after the numerous blocks i pulled/ pushed/ kicked off!!! i'd like to agree with 3 stars for the 2nd pitch but the first pitch was unworthy and the top-out not worth going back for!
finally went back to do this again. the top has cleaned up a bit since I was last there (plus I did a bit more trundling again!). have to say it's e4 6a and not e4 5c as in new CC guide. found a brilliant knee bar below the crux headwall though which made all the difference!