3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Oceanid < Fly Crazy But Free  |  Vikings > Caiaphas >>

A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large, wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. Belay on fence posts. The crack has lots of pegs insitu, however some of them have very narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them.
FAA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight 21.2.1976,FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.1981


Fantastic main (2nd) pitch. First pitch is loose and poorly protected, take care. Top out is loose, a rope
with a jumar or similar over the edge is advised. Consider missing out the first pitch (ab straight in) and
wear a helmet as the top is very loose and close to cliff path with lots of walkers.
Richard White - 06/Sep/00

Great climbing but even halfway up the main pitch I found a wobbly block. Dont pull on the dodgy flake
at the first overlap on the second pitch! Also many of the pegs have small eye holes so take some slim
crabs. With a bit of patience you can get very good gear in the first pitch too.
stone - 13/Aug/01

Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!
Chris Doyle - 29/Aug/01

Just for the records, I notice that it says in the description that the first ascent is unknown.
Well it was put up by Brian Snell seconded by Keith Knight.
Brian Snell - 21/May/03

Perhaps the author should have consulted the CC guide - the FA is in there.
Steve Taylor - 21/May/03

I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
matt perks - 22/Nov/04

Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
TonyM - 12/Dec/05

i thought this was pretty full on for E4. The top is hard, and you're pumped. BUt maybe it was just really cold and I was out of shape. End of the summer on a warm day, it might feel different. Awesome pitch, plenty gear, go for it.
Ged Desforges - 10/Mar/09

similar experiences to above, plus the fact that it was only about 4 degrees yesterday and thrusting my hands into those frosty cracks was not very conducive to pulling through the crux moves! the moves past the last peg deserve 6a i think, not least because from moving off the belay until you get to the finishing holds you're on your arms - on reaching the finishing holds you're forced to stop pulling as if not they'll end up in the sea - the top out is insanely loose, even after the numerous blocks i pulled/ pushed/ kicked off!!! i'd like to agree with 3 stars for the 2nd pitch but the first pitch was unworthy and the top-out not worth going back for!
ianb - 01/Feb/10

finally went back to do this again. the top has cleaned up a bit since I was last there (plus I did a bit more trundling again!). have to say it's e4 6a and not e4 5c as in new CC guide. found a brilliant knee bar below the crux headwall though which made all the difference!
ianb - 14/Sep/15

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  • Access Issues for Dorset

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 24
    hard E5 0 of 11
    E5 0 of 11
    easy E5 0 of 11
    hard E4 2 of 11
    E4 8 of 11
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