2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Outside The Wire < Exit Chimney Two - The Sequel  |  The Spook > Toiler on the Sea >>

A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the fault-line.
1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression.
2) 5b, 16m. Gain the fault-line beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (2 pegs) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top.
FA. George Smith, Kenny Winkworth 3.4.1972


The first pitch is really a solo as gear is very sparse. Working out your route on the second pitch while you are still at sealevel will save time, hassle and pride.
Nick Kenyon-Muir - 29/Jun/01

Good route, but the first pitch is a real nothing pitch ... crap gear, no real line etc. Second pitch is excellent though. I thought pretty middle of the road 5b ... the moves aren't hard, it's just steep
Jason - 05/Nov/01

make sure to keep something in reserve for after the roof 'cos it's certainly not all over once you clip the peg.
ian - 13/Jul/04

The hard part is commiting to get into position to pull through the roof rather than the move itself. The peg over the roof looks pretty much brand new and safe as houses.
GrahamD - 12/Dec/05

The peg over the roof is new but not as safe as houses, it moves and looks like it's been dislodged, possibly by a heavy fall.
It needs replacing or refixing - I wouldn't trust it to fall on. You can back it up if you can hang around long enough to place the gear.
P Roberts/M Soltani/D Thompson 18/June/06
P Roberts - 23/Jun/06

I found quite hard to get positioned below the first roof. I went from sentry box following the roof, and it was hard to get the jug above it. My partner went on the arete from the very beginning and found it much easier. oh well.
ramon marin martinez - 18/Oct/06

I found getting round and under the roof, via the barely existent peg, pretty scary, and felt better once I'd clipped the better peg above. Bit of a tiring faff trying to figure out the hard move up from there but then easier theeafter. Great to do.
brian mead - 01/Aug/08

***The important peg under the roof has now completely gone***
You now need to make very bold moves to clip the pegs above the roof. We are seasoned climbers but backed off. Should have taken our binoculars (again!).
Tony 7th April 09
Tony Deacon - 07/Apr/09

"Only" 5a - but every move is 5a. A full body workout. You have to trust your feet on this one on the bridging. Hot tip - if you are about to succumb to the pump, turn around.
francis - 14/Sep/09

'Only 5a' my arse. The top pitch is full-on 5b. Bottom pitch is 4b and very sandy - but there is gear on it if you look hard enough. Also, the peg under the roof protecting the crucial move onto the arete IS still there but you wouldn't want to fall on it. The other two on the upper wall seem fine.
Great route.
John Parker - 15/Aug/10

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  • Access Issues for Dorset

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 65
    hard E2 0 of 22
    E2 0 of 22
    easy E2 6 of 22
    hard E1 12 of 22
    E1 2 of 22
    easy E1 2 of 22
    hard HVS 0 of 22
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    hard 5c 0 of 21
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    easy 5c 0 of 21
    hard 5b 0 of 21
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    easy 5b 0 of 21
    hard 5a 0 of 21
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    hard 4c 0 of 21
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    hard 4b 0 of 21
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    hard 2a 0 of 21
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    hard ?? 0 of 21
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    easy ?? 3 of 21
    hard ?? 10 of 21
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    3 Stars 0 of 22
    2 Stars 18 of 22
    1 Star 4 of 22
    0 Stars 0 of 22
    Bag of ..... 0 of 22

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