Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 23
Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.
Gerri finished direct up the obvious groove in the Rockfax picture. Its 5b and I think makes the route worth 2 stars.
crux on first pitch are the few moves needed to reach the break under the roof - fairly committing off poor wires (the pegs are knackered). worth taking a large cam for the break (i had a camalot 3.5) as otherwise you've got ground fall potential. tidy route though and even the second pitch is quite pumpy for 5a.
An interesting route with a lot of varied climbing. You can get good wires before climbing up to the roof but they are a bit of a fiddle to find. The crack in the roof itself will take small cams and probably wires with a bit of work so 3.5 Camalot not essential. Can be done in one pitch but requires excellent ropework.