August Angie

1 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Spook < Toiler on the Sea  |  Necromancy > The Heat >>

Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.
1) 5b, 25m. Take the groove to the roof then traverse right to clear it. Follow a corner to the fault-line and take a stance 3m to the left. Take care with rope drag.
2) 5a, 12m. Climb the wall on the right to a roof. Swing right around an arete then climb through the weakness in the overhangs, to the top.
FA. Brian Snell, M.Colson. FFA. Richard Crewe 28.10.1973


Gerri finished direct up the obvious groove in the Rockfax picture. Its 5b and I think makes the route worth 2 stars.
Al Evans - 10/Sep/01

crux on first pitch are the few moves needed to reach the break under the roof - fairly committing off poor wires (the pegs are knackered). worth taking a large cam for the break (i had a camalot 3.5) as otherwise you've got ground fall potential. tidy route though and even the second pitch is quite pumpy for 5a.
ian bryant - 02/Feb/06

An interesting route with a lot of varied climbing. You can get good wires before climbing up to the roof but they are a bit of a fiddle to find. The crack in the roof itself will take small cams and probably wires with a bit of work so 3.5 Camalot not essential. Can be done in one pitch but requires excellent ropework.
matt perks - 26/Feb/09

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