Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 23
Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.</br>1) 5b, 25m. Take the groove to the roof then traverse right to clear it. Follow a corner to the fault-line and take a stance 3m to the left. Take care with rope drag.</br>2) 5a, 12m. Climb the wall on the right to a roof. Swing right around an arete then climb through the weakness in the overhangs, to the top.
Gerri finished direct up the obvious groove in the Rockfax picture. Its 5b and I think makes the route worth 2 stars.
crux on first pitch are the few moves needed to reach the break under the roof - fairly committing off poor wires (the pegs are knackered). worth taking a large cam for the break (i had a camalot 3.5) as otherwise you've got ground fall potential. tidy route though and even the second pitch is quite pumpy for 5a.
An interesting route with a lot of varied climbing. You can get good wires before climbing up to the roof but they are a bit of a fiddle to find. The crack in the roof itself will take small cams and probably wires with a bit of work so 3.5 Camalot not essential. Can be done in one pitch but requires excellent ropework.