Batt Crack

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ledgend Direct < Vampire Direct  |  Friends from the Deep > Yellow Belly Wall >>

A popular route. Start just right of Ledgend Direct.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb a short wall to a ledge, then move up rightwards to enter and follow a corner to an overhang. Go right to a ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 18m. Ascend a groove and flakes, then move right and up to a ledge. Pass another ledge and a small roof on the left.
FA. D.Hadlum, G.Reynolds 25.3.1967


A much better route than Legend Direct, a bit underated I think!
Al Evans - 17/Jul/01

Seconded ... and better gear / belay than Ledgend Direct too
Jason - 28/Aug/01

good crack climbing fun, bit wandering to start though.
ian - 12/May/02

Found the last moves up the crack of the first pitch rather more difficult than I thought. Great fun though
Glyn Wiliams - 07/Jul/02

Going up the crack was great for hands, not alot for feet though. Traverse across to the ledge was a little scary.
John Wellbelove - 17/Jun/03

Bit harder then I expected, but I would say this was a lovely route and thought it was better then Legend Direct. When you get to the top of the crack and traverse across, it is awsom.

The belay point is great for the view. I would recommend this route, but its a bit stiff for the grade.
Paul Hayes - 18/Jun/04

Another little gem.
GrahamD - 12/Dec/05

Last 5m of the 1st pitch was really tricky in my opinion. I lead the 2nd pitch and traversed left not right. Big mistake as the rock is loose in the extreme. BEWARE.
Mike Eldred - 06/Apr/07

I climbed it for my third time last weekend. Maybe I'm getting old, maybe I was just a bit out of condition, anyway I peeled off on the last few metres, took a big swing, ripped my gear out and plunged about 30 feet. I was fine. But I would strongly recommend making sure you've got rock-solid gear in before the nasty little traverse
James Underhill - 06/May/09

Really nice route, never any real peril (mild or otherwise) loads of gear and jams in the crack, and good small footholds on the right wall (for the traverse). Some of the flakes at the belay are not as solid as they first seem (but no major problems). Really good honest climbing, great route.
Mark Reed - 28/Jun/11

BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair chunk had already fallen off (Dorset has been in the news for this over the last week) as I could only just stand on it near an old peg right of the O/H. I made a couple of steps further right to see if it got any better, and the whole thing collapsed beneath me! Think this might be a one pitch route now! We were rightly spooked and didn't go back up for the gear or to see what was left of the ledge.
jurassicsparks - 26/Jul/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.