The War of the Wardens


Adjacent Routes
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A well-loved and well-used line that has become polished.
FA. Mark Williams 17.5.1994


Desperately polished (esp at start), thuggy and with a first bolt repeatedly abused by bad belaying from miles back. (It now has 3 bolts.) Avoid: the queues are just bumblies going by the grade.
Charles Arthur - 21/Mar/00

See above!
Duma - 30/May/00

I agree - totally over-used and not worth a look. A very inconsistent route - 2 or 3 hard (for this grade)moves and then a path.
Luke - 09/Jun/00

Would someone please find another 5 grade route on the main wall to give this route a break - it's going to be 7c before long if it keeps getting used this much!
Bob Wilson - 15/Feb/01

Above comments are right - Try John Cravens Willy Warmer for a much better grade 5 route.
Stewart - 29/Aug/01

you are all right but its not that bad for some
Jeff - 13/Jun/02

Someone ought to flatten the approach mound to give the poor old route a rest, and make it 6 feet longer. It's more highly polished than my bike, and that's saying something!
johnny - 03/Jan/03

Ridicuosly polished, much harder than John Cravens Willy Warmer, dont even give it a look in. Many 6a's are easuer, try Empty Promises (6a+) rather than this.
Stu Mac - 17/Nov/03

I agree, i climbed like a big fat bloater on this.(190904) well polished and felt harder than the grade suggested. i wouldnt say it was bad, just well overused as its the lowest grade in the quarry.
thesoulbrother - 21/Sep/04

Felt harder than 5 i reckon maybe 6a now. Not a bad route once you get over the polish - some nice moves.
Simon - 18/Mar/05

A big greasy poop
embo - 31/Jul/05

I reckon this is now harder than 5+ due to the polish. It's really not much of a route either.
DaveF - 26/Jun/08

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