1 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Three Calm Men < Pleasant Slab  |  Uno Cracks > Fate >>

The left-hand slab and juggy bulge.
FA. Brian Cropper 1976


The top moves on this climb are 4c and this route should be graded VS. The bottom half is Severe, though. But the last bit of gear is 10 feet from the top before a very steep section. You are above the gear with tiny handholds and feet on slopers: this is not Severe territory.
Martin Brice - 04/Sep/02

Admittedly I was soloing so not thinking of gear but those top moves are never 4c (although they are the crux). I think Severe is about right. Definitely too easy for VS.
dave F - 13/Jun/03

The last 2-3m before the jug-fest finnish are a tad bold and certainly at the top end of severe. However I did climb it on probably the hottest part of the hottest day of the year and suspect it would be a lot more friendly in cooler conditions. Absolutely not 4c; maybe bottom 4b?
D Berry - 10/Aug/03

Agreed, not even approaching 4c, but definitely bold (protection below feet unless you sneak right to put gear in Uno Cracks). Maybe HS 4a.
Simon Caldwell - 11/Aug/03

I struggled up this one, although ive not been climbing long. Wasnt sure if I could use the left-hand arete higher up, but if not its definitely hard for severe.
Si - 28/May/04

Agree this is more than a tad bold for a Severe, as the protection is some way below & has to be carefully arranged. The crux could be 4a-4b, but no 4c. Somewhat committing though!
Mal Grey - 04/Jul/05

i agree it is a commiting climb! funny enuf i lead this just after me & my mate had a bash at overhanging chimney & failed!!? i managedto get a no.2 cam in2 1 of the poks on the slab itself the rest of it was "on yer own son!!". a great climb.
comeclimbwithme2 - 31/Dec/05

My girlfriend's daughter, not the most athletic person ever, seconded this as her second ever route, so definitely not VS!
Iain Thow - 16/Mar/07

Thought this was relatively "friendly" really... It is a bit bold, as the gear is not great and a distance away. However the moves aren't too hard and its not sustained. I actually felt Duo Cracks was more technical (but better protected). Both of them both of them are fine clims though.
orge - 02/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard HS 0 of 19
    HS 0 of 19
    easy HS 5 of 19
    hard S 7 of 19
    S 6 of 19
    easy S 1 of 19
    hard HVD 0 of 19
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    hard 4b 0 of 19
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    easy 4b 0 of 19
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    hard 3c 0 of 19
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    hard 3b 0 of 19
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    hard 2b 0 of 19
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    hard 2a 0 of 19
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    hard ?? 0 of 19
    ?? 0 of 19
    easy ?? 5 of 19
    hard ?? 2 of 19
    ?? 11 of 19
    easy ?? 1 of 19
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 0 of 17
    1 Star 14 of 17
    0 Stars 3 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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