Moves for the Masses

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Of Mice and Men < Bad Day  |  Hangs Like a Dead Man > Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool >>

Weird and wonderful flowstone. A nice route with technical moves on small crimps. The direct start is called One More Cheese Sarnie and goes at 6c.
FA. Pete Oxley 13.10.1990. FA. (Direct start) James Mittens


Really good flowstone climbing.
rob - 16/Mar/00

Nice route with technical moves on small crimps.
Marq - 11/Jul/00

Good route, don't go too far right!
gareth - 06/Jan/01

Thuggy start
Al Evans - 28/Aug/01

New direct start is apparently about F6c
steve taylor - 09/Jan/02

The direct start is called 'One More Cheese Sarnie' and was first ascended by James Mittens. I thought that despite being some what of a boulder problem in the sky it is a worthwhile addition. F6c me thinks.
ben stokes - 05/Jul/02

Fun direct start to the route, worth a go. Told it is a about F7a, not really sure.
Theo Elmer - 27/Dec/04

A large section of the low overhang below the first bolt and between the direct start to Moves for the masses and Bad day has collapsed. Having never attempted the direct start, not sure if it affects the climb.
Bob Noades - 10/Dec/05

The direct start is hard for 6c - not sure if all the holds are still there? Felt more like 7a+ to me. Rocking over onto the slab is non-trivial... The conventional start is lovely - nice holds, great climbing.
Ben Darvill - 12/Dec/05

Another contender for best 6a in Swanage, the rock fall at start has not changed the grade, just made the beginning a bit more interesting
Alex More - 10/Apr/06

The direct start is a good 6C with one hard rockover using the two crimps to gain the flake....better than the non direct in my opinion
Simon Hann - 22/Apr/07

Does no-one else find this hard? Found getting over to the left utterly desperate.
Dave Foster - 22/Aug/08

Yep, I found it tough! Initial moves are fine, then there's a hard move to get up to the good flake beneath the roof, then it feels like a very long way out left to the bolt. I think the trick is not to go too high.
John Parker - 08/Oct/09

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