2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ono < Uno Cracks  |  Rinty > Duo Crack Climb >>

The centre of the pocketed slab is especially taxing for the short - beware the final reachy moves. Gear is minimal!
FA. Gary Gibson 1978


I can't see the side runners being relevant and probably closer to e3 than e1.
Tom O - 31/Jan/03

got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1?
Jon Greengrass - 20/Mar/03

The climbing would be a star if it wasn't too easy to reach over to either crack when tempted to put in protection. I don't understand how it gets HVS 5C in the old Stanage guide? Certainly only worth one star and not one I would go back to repeat.
Si Shaw - 26/Jun/03

I did this again and a small alien makes this a reasonable proposition at E1.
sloper - 11/May/04

skyhook makes it bombproof!!
ste - 21/May/04

Hmmm. A 25' solo where your target landing zone is 3' by 2'. Maybe a fluttery heart or a note about the side cracks for gear should be included. I couldn't find any placement in the pockets so used offset aliens in the shallow flared crack on the right.
srrk - 12/Jul/04

yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it!
Andrew Emery - 11/Oct/04

I thought about it! Then bouldered on it and thought again. Climbed Rinty and eyeballed it but seemed gear free.
bendoniumayebendonium - 31/Aug/05

Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c
chris_moor - 14/Jul/06

its down as the eaisest E2 in the graded list which it definatly isn't hard moves and absolutley no gearfelt much harder than impossible slab
Michael Watson - 11/May/09

I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered line right up the middle of the slab but what would be the point of that.
Andrew Barker - 10/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 62
    hard E3 0 of 6
    E3 0 of 6
    easy E3 2 of 6
    hard E2 0 of 6
    E2 1 of 6
    easy E2 3 of 6
    hard E1 0 of 6
    E1 0 of 6
    easy E1 0 of 6
    hard 6a 0 of 29
    6a 0 of 29
    easy 6a 0 of 29
    hard 5c 1 of 29
    5c 24 of 29
    easy 5c 1 of 29
    hard 5b 3 of 29
    5b 0 of 29
    easy 5b 0 of 29
    3 Stars 1 of 27
    2 Stars 13 of 27
    1 Star 9 of 27
    0 Stars 4 of 27
    Bag of ..... 0 of 27

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