1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Uno Cracks < Fate  |  Duo Crack Climb > Solo Slab >>

The thin cracks. Gear is a fiddle.
FA. Clive Rowland 1961


Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though.
Nick Smith - 08/Apr/02

Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend.
Jon Greengrass - 20/Mar/03

You can put quite a bit of gear in, but it is fiddly and quite dubious. Not good for inexperienced people at this level.
squeek - 15/Apr/03

The gear is hard to place and a bit marginal. I found it scary even though experienced at this grade.
Simon Burn - 25/Apr/03

I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though.
dave F - 13/Jun/03

I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a.
Stig - 18/Nov/03

I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse!
Duncan_S - 19/Jul/04

I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack).
Simon Caldwell - 15/Aug/04

I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required!
Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book
Souljah - 03/Aug/05

Felt insecure with suspect gear - good stuff. Stiff for VS, would be HVS on Froggat!
bendoniumayebendonium - 29/Aug/05

Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem...
Mutl3y - 11/Jun/06

thought there were some ok cams (micros- can't remember exactly) and its just a bit balancy. nice climb.
paul - 01/Sep/08

I failed on this several times before soloing it on a good day. I thought the only 5a move is low down, but the temptation to wimp out right gets stronger the higher you get.
Iain Thow - 25/Nov/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 99
    hard HVS 0 of 34
    HVS 0 of 34
    easy HVS 2 of 34
    hard VS 21 of 34
    VS 11 of 34
    easy VS 0 of 34
    hard HS 0 of 34
    HS 0 of 34
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    hard 5b 0 of 33
    5b 0 of 33
    easy 5b 0 of 33
    hard 5a 15 of 33
    5a 13 of 33
    easy 5a 5 of 33
    hard 4c 0 of 33
    4c 0 of 33
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    3 Stars 0 of 32
    2 Stars 0 of 32
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