Post-coital Snooze

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Any Old Time < Bread Knife  |  Iron Bar > The Chestnut Mare >>

The routes takes the cracks in the wall to the right of Bread Knife and features a distinct crux on smooth rock.
FA. Mike Robertson 18.3.1994


The crux is hideously polished. This makes it harder, with chalk just adding to the dificulty. Do some other routes first, you don't want this being your introduction to the area!
Ben - 18/Mar/00

An honorary slate climb but without any postive footholds - I enjoyed it in a pervy sort of way, but it's not 5+!!!
BigLad - 19/Apr/00

Try a knee jam on the slippery crux move.
High in the grade.
Red - 03/May/00

Crux is easy if you are about 6ft tall!
Marq - 11/Jul/00

The unpleasant crux puts this journey into the 6a zone.
Marcus - 26/Sep/00

High in the grade but not 6a! (I am not tall)
Al - 15/Oct/00

5+? My a**e! Polished state of the crux makes it 6a. Worth 1 star for it's character - just look how many comments it's invoked. Knee jam? - How long (or thin) are your legs?
Roger Edwards - 04/Jun/01

There's this tiny edge on the left wall, just big enough....
Steve Taylor - 08/Aug/01

The Crux is Cool :) but once you sort the sequence it is not that hard.
Maaten - 14/Sep/01

Has this now lost a hold? Found it completely impossible to get past the third bolt.
MarkH - 19/Aug/02

It took me four attempts on different visits to finally complete this route. I only managed it when I was comfortably climbing 6a. But I am short (5ft 8). The 6a's at Winspit are easier!
Jon - 06/Dec/04

There's two ways to go at it i guess, either up through the thin crack to a good hold at top, or to venture out to the right. Either way its only tough for that move!
Alex - 12/Dec/04

The project through the roof over the entrance of the cave to the right of this route is now a 7b+ called "The Chestnut Mare", courtesy of Rob Kennard.
Very short and powerful testpiece with really good moves. Lower off last bolt after getting the ledge above route. Scramble around,carefully, to retrieve last runner. Thanks to Matt King for bolting and opening the project. Damn to Kennard for beating me again!!
Richard White - 18/Oct/05

Did The Chestnut Mare today - great moves, loved the top section round the last roof. An excellent addition to the growing number of routes at Winspit
JIMBO - 18/Dec/05

This good route not overly challengin' if you normal climb round the 5 mark you could easily do this though my mate did struggle by keeping himself to tense just relax and it is brill
ouch - 14/Aug/07

Only 1 move at 6a (to start the crack), thought the rest was 5ish.
it's OK, wouldnt give it a star though...
Ewan Whitmey - 25/Oct/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.