Billy Winspit

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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A relatively easy lower wall and flake lead to a hands-off rest. The next move is the crux and is very reach dependent.
FA. Steve Taylor 28.11.1993


7b if your less than 6', else Fr7a+
goi ashmore - 11/Apr/02

Considerably harder if you're short. Anyone 5'5" or less done it (I haven't).
Guy Maddox - 22/Aug/02

Jon Biddle thinks it is 7c/7c+ and he is about 5'7" and climbs 8a on a good day.
It might only be one move, but I am 5'10" and could only just make the reach. Joff and Damo both took a few goes to get it too.
It was E5 6C as a tope rope grade in an old guide, as rates by Pete O.
Steve Taylor - 23/Aug/02

Their is no need to make a really long reach i am 5'7 and felt it was solid 7a+ but no harder. their is and imtermediate crimp before the good one get that crimp it and reach to the good hold. Like steve said its only one move and not a very hard one therfore it cannot warrant 7b. If you cant make the reach get your feet up their are plenty of small footholds.
richard - 23/Aug/02

Definitely a hard one to grade. 7a+ for me (3rd try) - but a lot harder than Lulworth Arms Treaty (which gets 7b).
Steve K - 08/Mar/06

I'm 5'11" on a tall day ;o) and this felt benchmark 7a+ for me. Like Richard said there is an intermediate crimp, which allows you to adjust on the undercut, and plenty of good footholds. I used a small foothold above the obvious large one and I wasn't at full stretch - no way an english 6c move.
Ben Stokes - 08/May/07

Perhaps we need a sliding scale on this one...I am 5'9"- definitely 7b for me!
Rob Kennard - 08/May/07

I’m of the opinion that a climb should be graded for the easiest method and whether that requires a specific somatotype then so be it. Yes, it's unfortunate that the short find it harder in this instance, but them’s the breaks......
Ben Stokes - 08/May/07

I actually feel I am the only one qualified to comment on this.

Being 62 feet tall it felt about 1a on the redpoint.

However, when I onsighted it the next day it became much harder at about 1a+ishgiveortakeagradeortwo!

A sliding scale of difficulty is a great idea taking into consideration such factors as height, weight, age, amount of wine consumed (in my case lots), distance travelled to the crag(!!) and other such nonense.
Richard White - 08/May/07

Second go for me. It's a big hard move which I was at full stretch to do (5'11"). Can be done other ways but would make it much harder. Also think the undercut is a red herring and makes the move harder. It's 7a+ if you can reach the hold 7b if you can't. Easy
mark wellin - 05/Nov/10

Oh and rich Simpson (of being a beast fame, climbed several 9a, action direct etc etc) says it's 7b. So your in good company if you think it's nails.
mark wellin - 05/Nov/10

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