Lunacy Booth

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Souls of Mischief < The Pizza Express  |  Nosey > Rampant Love Jugs >>

An entertaining, big and burly roof climb starting from the right-hand pile of boulders in the centre of the cave. A good knee-bar above the large roof gives a quick hands-off rest. The first bolt might need to be stick-clipped by the short.
FA. Pete Oxley 5.6.1994


Good fun. Ok for the grade
goi ashmore - 11/Apr/02

The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach...
JIMBO - 11/Dec/02

Big and burly roof climbing, just what Swanage is all about. Good knee bar over the big roof gives a quick hands off rest before knee ligaments snap. Great route with a fun jump start off the pile of boulders.
Richard White - 01/Sep/03

Easy for 7c but very nice moves, specially the knee bar. The tip of Jimbo is what you need.
Guido Maris (Belgium) - 01/Aug/04

The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest!
Richard Horn - 13/Aug/07

for those who have done everything else:
"The Pizza Express" 7c+ FA Bob Hickish 20/01/2009
A link up of "Souls of Mischief" (the old project) into "Lunacy Booth". Climb "Souls..." to its 4th bolt, making the initial moves of the crux sequence for that route, then traverse hard right with your hands over the lip, into the kneebar rest of "Lunacy Booth". Finish as for this route. Overall slightly harder than "Souls" and providing some powerful new moves, though maybe only for locals!
bob - 23/Jan/09

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