Kelly's Overhang

3 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Eric's Eliminate < Twisting Crack  |  Inaccessible Slab > Mouthpiece >>

An amazing ascent for its day - it still sees much floundering. From Twisting Crack, make awkward moves to a poor rest on the block under the roof. Bridge right along the lip and make a hard move up and right to reach holds on the wall. Finish easily.
FA. Morley Wood 1926


You can get a great hands-free rest on the block (get one leg at the back of the crack), which is just as well because it took me over an hour to work out how to do the crux! Hint: undercut or jam the break on the far right, and delicately rock over.
Nick Smith - 26/Jun/02

It's a great rest if you have the flexibility of a childs rubber toy. I don't and my hips still hurt. It only took me twenty minutes to work it out the same way, but please can we delete the previous comment or are you supposed to get miles more beta than you need on these comments? Hanging on to work it out is the hard bit FFS. It's sporting HVS and anyone who says different hasn't been on Orangutan. Oh hang on that's E2 now, I might buy this new guide book so I can say I'm a seasoned extreme leader.
Paz - 30/Sep/02

While it's worth e1 5c it's a shame to miss out on a classic sandbag opportunity.
l applat - 12/Mar/03

What a fantastic route, I had trouble getting me leg out the 'rest'. Didn't do the crux as above, more of a frantic paddling and bloodied knuckles.
CH - 21/Mar/03

He was some boy that Morely Wood, wonder why he called it Kelly's overhang?
Al Evans - 22/Sep/03

Technically it's 5b It just takes a bit of working out but that's no reason to give it 5c. Compare it with other 5c on Stanage! There's also lots of gear so why E1? It's no more strenuous than Right Unconquerable and has a much better rest.
Duncan Irving - 04/May/04

I.m gonna go back for this bad boy,my arms got so pumped hanging around on the traverse out trying to find the leg jam i took a fall on good gear and floated gently down head bowed in shame,ah well living in chesterfield i've go0t plenty of time left to get back out and give it some.
trumpy - 23/Jul/04

Stop giving beta everyone! A personal interpretation of your experience of the route is all thats necessary. Mine is, that this is the easiest so called E1 Ive ever undertaken, including the simplest to anticipate and execute so called 5c moves ive ever undertaken. 8-)
Salamanda - 19/Aug/04

felt a lot harder than the right unconquerable
aaron lee - 31/Jul/05

I doubt it's a new route, but instead of staying low after the bridge (I thought it was a great rest, and didn't have to jam anything!), keep bridging directly upwards from between the blocks. It becomes a relatively easy E1 5c/5b, but felt far more enticing than trying to get left under the roof!
Not much harder than Right Un., but much easier than Left Un.
Pythonist - 15/Nov/05

Soloed this and didn't think it was too bad, not harder than Flying Buttress Direct which is also HVS 5b.
Paul Phillips - 18/Sep/06

Clarification of line:
This climb starts up Twisting Crack, traverses to the rest, and then continues right before moving up. I'd still give it E1.

Moving directly up from the rest is Mouthpiece at HVS and it can finish either right/left once on the upper slab.

Mouthpiece as described in Rockfax (crossing the roof direct to the rest) is E2 5c.

(PS by "left under..." I did of course mean "right under..." in the previous post)
Pythonist - 16/Oct/06

UK grades are supposed to be for the onsight and this is E1 5c. If you know how to do the move in advacne and know youre going ot get a rest (and how) then maybe its HVS 5b. but not otherwise.
Si dH - 03/Dec/06

I'm really gald i didn't look at this page before i tried the route. Wouldn't have been nearly as satisfying if i'd read all this beta....
AlanM - 30/Apr/07

This route excellent and haerd as nails. the hardest bit about the climb is stopping to put gear in. Not sure about E1 although I struggled more on this than alot of E1's I have done. I think its one of those climbs where u will struggle no matter what grade ur leading.
robert bridges - 09/Jun/08

Big jugs to no hands rest on block, then a cool move to step across right. Not a struggle if you climb it rather than battle with it. HVS 5B. t covers immpressive ground for the grade and is probably the best route i've done on Stanage.
craig devonshire - 09/Jun/08

Either the hardest HVS going or a reasonable (although perhaps bottom end E1). Pleasant 5aish climbing leads to a stopper more than a grade harder ie just scrapes into 5c in my book. Much harder than any other HVS out there eg R unconq & FBD.
Morgan Woods - 06/Jun/09

Splendid fun. By Pythonists definition, I did the E1, but I like this sort of thing so it felt like HVS. WAY easier than say... The Unprintable.
Jon Leighton - 18/Sep/09

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