Inaccessible Crack

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Inaccessible Crack Direct < The Beautician  |  Impossible Slab > Eckhard's Arete >>

Devious but also excellent. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end then traverse left to finish as for the Direct variation.
FA. Harry Kelly 1915


Make sure you carry your seagull swinger (size 9 rockcentrick) for the top crack and layback to glory.
neil - 18/Jan/02

Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :)
Jon Croxford - 18/Mar/02

Absolute magic and the best thing I've done so far! The difficulty of the first move made the finish look a bit intimidating. The ledge would be a path if it was on the ground, but feels very ballsy as you leave your protection behind. Grabbed the crack like a lifebelt and enjoyed the rest.
dj - 17/Jul/02

theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb.
paul - 14/Sep/02

Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4).
gav p - 15/Sep/02

Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade.
Jamie B - 07/May/03

My friend 4 was cobblers in that top crack- which was a nice surprise as it was the only biggy I took (there's thinner breaks in the left wall thnkfully).
jon stew - 07/May/03

In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high.
gav p - 08/May/03

A far more interesting route than the Direct variant.
Nick Smith - 09/Jun/03

I loved this route - found the lower crack quite hard and the top crack a lot easier than I had been expecting and not strenuous - good positive foot holds all the way.
Jane - 18/May/04

Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams.
SidH - 13/Nov/04

Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy.
Richard - 19/Sep/05

nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Oct/05

If you can get off the ground then you'll get up the top no trouble.
Paul Johnson - 09/Jun/08

Nice route, I too found the bottom section slightly hairier than the top, seemed fairly solid VS 4c and worth the 3 stars.
Rob Cole - 13/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 162
    hard HVS 0 of 53
    HVS 0 of 53
    easy HVS 0 of 53
    hard VS 1 of 53
    VS 49 of 53
    easy VS 3 of 53
    hard HS 0 of 53
    HS 0 of 53
    easy HS 0 of 53
    hard 5a 0 of 53
    5a 0 of 53
    easy 5a 0 of 53
    hard 4c 0 of 53
    4c 0 of 53
    easy 4c 0 of 53
    hard 4b 0 of 53
    4b 0 of 53
    easy 4b 0 of 53
    hard 4a 0 of 53
    4a 0 of 53
    easy 4a 0 of 53
    hard 3c 0 of 53
    3c 0 of 53
    easy 3c 0 of 53
    hard 3b 0 of 53
    3b 0 of 53
    easy 3b 0 of 53
    hard 3a 0 of 53
    3a 0 of 53
    easy 3a 0 of 53
    hard 2c 0 of 53
    2c 0 of 53
    easy 2c 0 of 53
    hard 2b 0 of 53
    2b 0 of 53
    easy 2b 0 of 53
    hard 2a 0 of 53
    2a 0 of 53
    easy 2a 0 of 53
    hard ?? 4 of 53
    ?? 46 of 53
    easy ?? 3 of 53
    3 Stars 39 of 56
    2 Stars 17 of 56
    1 Star 0 of 56
    0 Stars 0 of 56
    Bag of ..... 0 of 56

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