Tighe's Arete

2 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Harp < Pocket Wall  |  Ledge Way > Grain of Sand >>

12m. The arete is delicate and quite low in the grade. A semi-crucial Friend in the slot gets in the way a little,
FA. Trevor Tighe 1968


This is a great little route, not hard technically but quite bold, I think the grade is spot on.
Al - 03/May/02

You can get a good small friend in a slot (somewhat off route) on the right before the crux.
Neil Binns - 02/Apr/03

Good route, quite bold. The friend in the slot that neil mentions would be miles off route if it's where I think and would never be E1.
Andy Higginson - 24/Jun/03

A wire before the pocket and a friend in the right-hand slot (which can be easily reached from the left hand placement) reduce this to a less bold HVS.
Carl Smethurst - 06/Jul/03

beware of this climb. a friend of mine placed 3 poor wires in the crack about halfway up and missed the friend placement. he fell from 25ft pulled the gear and hit the ground.he is still recovering after 4 months.
a better idea is to place a solid nut in the vd crack to the left.to at least avoid a groiund fall.

the friend placement in the pocket makes the route much more interesting and bold, great rush stepping up without the pocket
james turnbull - 29/Mar/04

the friend placement seems solid so dont miss it and will probably be the only gear as the next move or two are the crux and the only hard(ish) section
james turnbull - 30/Mar/04

Yeah a neat little route, straight forward moves but bold-ish as it feels quite exposed toward the top when you have to start getting your 'leg over' a bit more!.Good positive holds all the way and worth all of it's two stars, probably one of the better routes at the place!
Jack Brunning - 30/Jun/04

A cheeky little solo, technically not too demanding but bold all the same.
Phil Davies - 10/Feb/05

Much easier for those over 6' and VS/HVS if you're 6'3"!
Kinley - 21/May/05

I found the (small) wire placements in the vertical crack very good, and with the friend in the slot gives excellent protection for the crux move, even if still bold (but easier) higher up.
simon1 - 27/Jul/05

Quite easy if you know how but still fairly cool. Height makes no difference whatsoever in my opinion. Couple o microwires lower down is fun and friend in the pocket if you need.
Josty - 13/Sep/05

Easy E1
Good wires halfway, good friend in the pocket.
Don't place any pro off route, it's not required and it's just not cricket...
oliver aram - 24/Nov/05

Any gear in the slot would be way off route. I struggled to get a "good" friend in the pocket (and I tried lots of different sizes!), not sure if what I got would have held a fall. Got reasonably good small wires in the crack. Nice route, but bold.
sandy - 29/May/06

This must be the softest E1 in the Peak District!
Rob Davies - 28/Jul/06

Nope. That would be Three Pebble Slab - hence the downgrade. :p Is Hobson Moor even in the Peak District?
Joe - 21/Aug/06

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 90
    hard E2 0 of 30
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    E1 8 of 30
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    hard ?? 1 of 30
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    3 Stars 0 of 30
    2 Stars 18 of 30
    1 Star 11 of 30
    0 Stars 1 of 30
    Bag of ..... 0 of 30

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