2 Stars
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Cistern Groove < Pisa  |  Pisa Direct > Pisa Super Direct >>

A strenuous and sustained pitch though with good protection throughout. High in the grade. Climb the steep finger-cracks to the small ledge on Pisa. Finish up the easier cracks above. The lower crack is hard for for the strong and the central crack is hard for the weak.
FA. John Gosling late 1960s


The upper crack is hard. I think it's worth 5C
Colin - 10/Aug/03

The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.
Jon Greengrass - 10/Jun/04

Any faffing/timewasting on the finger cracks is highly likely to result in either falling, or down-climbing to take up the position of gibbering wreck on one of the ledges.
Gear in, then pull hard and fast!
Alex Purser - 10/Aug/04

Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it.
I thought the bottom crack was the crux, I must of half climbed up it then climbed down it about half a dozen time before actually commiting to the moves.
MeMeMe - 12/Jun/05

Nice route this, more taxing than I expected. High in the grade I would say. Demands good finger locking technique and commitment.
This route on the day provided a nice boost for a skinny, pale, Ron Hill wearing type like me. I got it onsight in one push with 3 bits of gear. Then along came ‘Bret’, a more tanned perfectly ripped shirtless rock god you are unlikely to see. Galileo slapped his arse till it shone.
Remember kiddies things are not always as they appear, that goes for Bret, the route, and me.
karl walton - 23/Jul/05

It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade.

Puritans will be reassured to note that enjoyment plays no role in this route whatsoever.
Fiend - 06/Aug/06

Pretty tough at E1, especially for the skinny fingered folk. Way harder than any of the Millstone E1s. 2 grades harder than Pisa Super Direct.
Tom - 25/Aug/08

Agreed - its a toughy, and the cracks are a lot rougher inside than your average Millstone route making gear that little bit more awkward to place.

Not too many easy ticks at this crag actually... E1 5c is fair, Regent Street isn't much harder.
Jon Leighton - 26/Apr/09

In so much as you can step up, place bomber gear above your head, look for holds then step down to hands free rests (from both the steep sections), this didn't feel as desperate as I was expecting. Once you have worked out what to do, mind, its no stopping til the next ledge.
GrahamD - 26/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 84
    hard E2 0 of 29
    E2 0 of 29
    easy E2 6 of 29
    hard E1 18 of 29
    E1 5 of 29
    easy E1 0 of 29
    hard HVS 0 of 29
    HVS 0 of 29
    easy HVS 0 of 29
    hard 6a 0 of 29
    6a 0 of 29
    easy 6a 0 of 29
    hard 5c 0 of 29
    5c 0 of 29
    easy 5c 0 of 29
    hard 5b 0 of 29
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    easy 5b 0 of 29
    hard 5a 0 of 29
    5a 0 of 29
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    hard 4c 0 of 29
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    easy 4c 0 of 29
    hard 4b 0 of 29
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    easy 4b 0 of 29
    hard 4a 0 of 29
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    hard 3c 0 of 29
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    hard 3b 0 of 29
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    hard 3a 0 of 29
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    hard 2c 0 of 29
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    hard 2a 0 of 29
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    hard ?? 0 of 29
    ?? 0 of 29
    easy ?? 10 of 29
    hard ?? 11 of 29
    ?? 8 of 29
    easy ?? 0 of 29
    3 Stars 6 of 26
    2 Stars 18 of 26
    1 Star 1 of 26
    0 Stars 1 of 26
    Bag of ..... 0 of 26

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