Tango Buttress

2 Stars
 HS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Lost Soul < Tango Crack  |  Where did my Tan Go? > High Neb Buttress Arete >>

A good slab with thin initial moves. Continue past another delicate section, which leads to the curving finishing flake. Not too well protected in its upper reaches.
FA. Fred Pigott and friends, early 1920s


Best enjoyed if you solo it.
neil - 18/Jan/02

Lovely climbing.
Nick Smith - 08/Apr/02

nice climb but don't know where it gets a 5a grading? seemed more like 4a to me.
paul willison - 14/Sep/02

The first smeary move to get off the ground to the first break is 5a. You must have been using the vdiff crack to the left if you thought 4a. It's all fairly easy above, however.
gav p - 15/Sep/02

The first move off the ground is harder than anything on High Neb Buttress so 5a seems reasonable. Above this it would be about HS 4a due to lack of gear.
Simon C - 30/Mar/03

Poorly protected higher up but very good climbing
Matt Griffin - 03/Sep/03

Definitely a 5a move off the ground, and substained 4a climbing above this. It's not difficult, but protection is non-existent on the middle section and you will deck out if you fall off.
James McN - 24/May/04

Did this as my first HS lead. First move was hardish and unprotected but I managed to get something soon after that, so the middle section was at least partly protected (I think!). Top less protected maybe but also easier once you're at the flake. Very nice route.
Si - 09/Jun/04

Yet another fantastic HS, a solid 5a move off the ground and a bold middle section. The top section can be protected with a nut behind the flake. Shouldn't this climb get a little winged heart icon, it certainly felt like there was a potential for a big fall.
Chris - 12/Aug/04

Very easy for the grade if you're tall. Good gear too - a friend to the left at the first decent break, and another on the right at the next. Lovely little route, but you'd have to be trying hard to deck out.
Stuart S - 28/Sep/04

Thought the gear was great. If you can get up the slab to the first (or is it second?) break, then you shouldn't have any problems with the rest as the grade eases. And you can bung a small friend under a flake for the last of the 4a moves before the grade really eases. Nice to practice difficult moves with little potential for injury.
Nick Murphy - 30/Jun/05

Didn't feel like 5a to me, especially not if you compare it to Norse Corner Climb which gets 5a in the Stanage guide and 4c in Rockfax. Felt about 4c. Soloed it, which menas it doesn't feel insecure!
Jonathan T - 13/Jul/05

I did this first moves ok the it started raining so the top section was fun cos when i say raining I mean hailing!!! My gd i was cold by the time my second got up!!! Fun Climb though!
kermit - 24/Jul/05

Start is definately 5a - noticably harder than anything on High Neb Buttress - and the most useful foothold is very polished. May be something to do with scrabbling top ropers in boots. Otherwise nice.
Andy Hobson - 31/Oct/05

the start is a bouldery 5a, no where is the climb bold and it soon turns into a bit of a scramble. wicked none the less.
stu maci - 23/Nov/05

A good climb, I found the move half way up to be the crux for me, but there is solid gear just below it. After that it’s a bit like climbing the stairs, fun though!
chris colebrooke - 02/May/06

tango buttress - a fantastic climb!! my 1st lead of the year after seconding up tango crack (vdiff) which resulted in mark anstey kissing the rock halfway up!?! bold and a confident approach is needed
comeclimbwithme2 - 07/May/06

Easy enough for 5a, but could be a bit of a shock at HS if you haven't got your steady head on. Definitely worth taking the ropes for mind. There is a good friend after the initail crux section, for the still delicate middle bit. A pink Tricam protects the otherwise run-out, but much easier, end section.
D Berry - 03/Sep/06

Nice start to the climb all though a little polished and also a nice mid section as well, gear in the right places if you need it with a scramble to finish.
Paul Tomo - 06/Sep/07

Pull up on slopers (4c/5a) then boldish 4a climbing with bomber but spaced cams. Good HS.
mark20 - 18/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 169
    hard VS 0 of 55
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