Lord of the Dance
<< Gary Gobstopper < Beeston Eliminate | Perforation > None >>
The middle girdle offers a lot of fine fingery climbing with a sting-in-the-tail crux. Start as for Beeston Eliminate.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb the cleaned stripe to a big tree.
2) 5b, 30m. Follow Beeston Eliminate to below the overlap just short of the stance. Traverse right descending slightly all the way to below the crux bulge of The Thorn. Climb down into the cave to belay.
3) 5b, 16m. Descend the diagonal crack/ramp then pull right over the bulge and follow a gently rising line to a small stance on the polished ramp of Central Wall.
4) 6a, 34m. Traverse right to gain the left-slanting groove of The Fly. Climb up this to hard moves left (old pegs) then easier grassy climbing to the top. Finishing up Black Grub is a slightly easier and arguably better alternative.
FA. John Codling, Dave Jones 1979
Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at the second of two big trees.
Pitches 2 and 3 are superb. Pitch 2 is 35m. We finished up Black Grub which makes it into an easier, though 3 star, route.
With a 60m rope and care, it is possible to ab diagonally down to the base of the cliff below The Beest etc
Graham Hoey - 03/Sep/13
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